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In April 2012 Mark Horrell travelled to Tibet hoping to become, if not the first person to climb Mount Everest, at least the first Karl Pilkington lookalike to do so.
He joined a mountaineering expedition which included an Australian sexagenarian, two Brits whose idea of hydration meant a box of red wine, and a New Zealander who enjoyed reminding his teammates of the perils of altitude sickness and the number of ways they might die on summit day.
The media often write about Mount Everest deaths and how easy the world’s highest mountain has become to climb, but how accurately does this reflect reality?
The Chomolungma Diaries is a true story of ordinary people climbing Mount Everest with a commercial expedition, and preparing for the biggest day of their lives.
Imagine your life clipped into a narrow line of cord five miles above the earth, on the world’s most terrifying ridge walk. This book will bring you just a little bit closer to that experience.
- Sales Rank: #436140 in eBooks
- Published on: 2012-11-17
- Released on: 2012-11-17
- Format: Kindle eBook
About the Author
For five years Mark Horrell has written what has been described as one of the most credible Everest opinion blogs out there. He writes about trekking and mountaineering from the often silent perspective of the commercial client.
For over a decade he has been exploring the world's greater mountain ranges and keeping a diary of his travels. As a writer he strives to do for mountain history what Bill Bryson did for long-distance hiking.
Several of his expedition diaries are available as quick reads from the major online bookstores. His first full-length book, Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, about his ten-year journey from hill walker to Everest climber, was published in November 2015.
His favourite mountaineering book is The Ascent of Rum Doodle by W.E. Bowman.
Most helpful customer reviews
12 of 14 people found the following review helpful.
The Chomolungma Diaries
By ROYMAC
I enjoyed this book a great deal. It impressed me as a genuine and unembellished record of a once-in-a-lifetime experience by the author. I have read many books about climbing Mt. Everest and often they are written to impress the reader and glamourize the climbers and the dangers they face. I suppose I could be disappointed that no one in the climbing party almost died or was stranded on the mountain but I wasn't. Mr. Horrell wrote in much the same way as I imagined I would write if I were in his place on the expedition. As he said more than once the idea is get up to the summit and get back down safely. He did that and wrote about the journey at the same time. I can only imagine the joy he must have felt upon his return to base camp.
7 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating and troubling read
By VG
Longer than most of Horrell's other mountaineering diaries, this book has about four dozen chapters (or diary entries), but in fact, you could say that it has three main parts:
Part One, which I'd call Happy Hour: Up to the 60% mark on Kindle, it's happy hour for Horrell and his mates. Really, up to the 60% mark, it seems the difference between climbing Everest and smaller mountains is there's an extra month thrown in for acclimatisation (or, in plain English, Happy Hour!) There must be 30 pages devoted to happy hour in this section. It's really quite humorous - the amount of time spent swilling is easily triple the time spent climbing. There's even some happy hour drama. It's all in good fun, this first 60%, and there are some fine passages about acclimatisation, getting to the North Col, and about misery at Advanced Base Camp, but man, Happy Hour. Until the 60 % mark of the book, I'd say happy hour and drinking are the most prominent aspects.
Part Two, which I'd label The trek to the summit: After the 60% mark, the second story starts, and it's far more serious. No more booze. No more jokes. The tone changes completely. Base camps are left behind and the exhausting climb to the summit begins. This is tense stuff and gripping. Horrell becomes just another scared guy who's trying to get there, but above all, get back. In most other travel diaries that I've read, he's been well within himself and summited with ease, or given up because of weather, not because of his limits. But here, he's severely tested even though conditions are excellent, the crowds are not too bad, and he essentially has a private Sherpa to help him out. Nonetheless, above 8300, on the summit push, he's not the cocky guy he was down below during happy hour, not by a long shot. In fact he seems out of his element entirely. He's pretty close to being the slowest person on the mountain that day, getting back to Camp 3 almost 18 exhausting hours after he left it! Already shaky and unable to eat by the day of the push, he has trouble with his gear, his oxygen, his goggles, everything. Really, he's a wreck. At several points on the way down, he even experiences dangerous micro-sleeps. It was tense stuff.
Part Three, in which we learn of other people on the mountain that day who had it worse: The last 5% of the book is frankly depressing and troubling. By the time Horrell gets back to Base Camp 3, he's a wreck: severely dehydrated, physically exhausted, mentally trashed, not even remotely pleased with his day, his body and mind locked in survivor mode. But chillingly, on his way down that day, he runs into two other climbers from other teams, one still going up(!), the other coming down, both of whom are essentially as bad off as he is. We learn on the final page that the book is dedicated to one of these two people. Enough said. Very depressing stuff.
Horrell writes in the final pages that he hopes he's managed to dispel some of the misconceptions people have about expeditions to Everest - that they're not all just fat wealthy jerks carried to the top by Sherpas so they can tick off another item on the old bucket list. In some ways, he succeeds; in other ways, not so much. His expedition has ordinary guys and women who train (and drink) hard, and who save up to be able to have some extraordinary experiences. And yet, there still seems to be something terribly wrong with these expeditions to me. During the weeks-long acclimatisation period, while the expedition members do a little climbing and a lot of drinking, the Sherpas are almost non-stop trudging up and down the mountain, making caches, installing lines, and just generally getting the mountain ready all the way up to 8300 so that the majority of expedition members can have a chance at the summit and get back safely. Horrell doesn't deny any of this. He freely admits that without the Sherpas, he's nobody, and he's never getting to the top without them. But it doesn't bother him. I'm ambivalent. I realize that it's difficult or impossible for people who like climbing and who are serious about it to spend months at Everest hauling all their own stuff up from camp to camp, and doing all the dirty work on their own. But I'd be a lot more impressed if the mountaineers and the Sherpas at least did approximately equal work as partners. Take an extra month (or more), with the attendant costs and time off work, and help schlep your oxygen, your tents, your lines, your food, your kitchen stuff up to ABC and beyond. It would reduce the numbers by half, and the extra time at altitude doing Sherpa-style work (very slowly, admittedly) would improve the mountaineers' abilities and fitness and maybe result in fewer fatalities.
Perhaps I'm being totally unrealistic, but frankly, I find Horrell's experiences in Denali Nights to be much closer to what I would consider real mountaineering.
But I'm out of my element at this point. I've only ever done a tiny amount of climbing, and only actually had porters once. I've never even been above 5000. But there you go. Four stars.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Exciting story of an amateur climber taking on Everest
By Mark Schulman
In 2012 Mark Horrell takes us along on his trek up Everest with a commercial climbing expedition. Even though he has a significant advantage compared to the early Everest explorers -- such as safety lines all along the route and an experienced Sherpa looking after him -- the grueling ordeal still takes everything he has, and the narration just about left me gasping for oxygen along with him. He does a great job of making the danger of the undertaking very clear and real -- 2012 was a deadly year on Everest and Horrell's encounters with people who don't survive the attempt brings home the tragedy of these failures.
My quibbles with the book are minor and easy to work around. Climbing Everest is a much more complex undertaking than “Climb to the top, climb back down,” and Horrell never really explains the plans ahead of time. I highly recommend that you do a quick web search (something such as “Everest north face route”) before getting too far into the book to get a quick overview of what’s ahead. On YouTube you can find a 3D simulation of the entire route, which will give you an excellent appreciation for what Horrell is attempting. I kept a map of the route handy while reading and found it very useful.
My other quibble is that Horrell occasionally uses climbing terms without explanation, such as jumar (a rope-climbing device) and serac (a column of glacial ice). This casual use of terms that a non-climber probably won’t know is probably a consequence of the book being written as a diary. The use of these terms without explanation would have been a bit more annoying in a printed book, but thankfully the Kindle dictionary was always there with a definition.
A final tip for the reader: The book contains some photos, but it turns out that Horrell’s web site has a large collection of his photos (from his Everest trip and others), and thankfully his Everest photos are organized into sections that parallel the book pretty well. Sadly I didn’t discover this fact until late in the book -- it would have been nice to read about a part of his trek and then check out his photos on his web site. The web site address is in the back of the book, and you want the 2012 Everest photos. They’ll add a lot to your enjoyment of the book.
Despite the minor quibbles, this was a very enjoyable and exciting read, and I had a hard time putting it down. I highly recommend it. The essence of the book is contained in a line spoken by one of Horrell’s fellow climbers, Ian, beaten and spent after his ordeal: "I don't think I respected Everest enough before," he says, "but I do now."
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